The Antioxidant Mystery

In the last two decades the role of antioxidants in skin care has radically changed. From the 1980’s to 2000, research was just being done on Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) for the common cold. The Linus Pauling Institute paved the way for new ideas and Vitamin C and E.

In the early part of the new millennium, it was common to find stabilizers and preservatives in finished formulas. As the personal care industry progressed, naturally derived ingredients started to become more and more common. Of course, most of these ingredients were based on botanical ingredients, which are chock-full of polyphenols and other ingredients with antioxidant properties. Phytochemicals are molecules that are produced by plants. Much effort has gone into understanding their antioxidant, anti- inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic potential for skin care.

Antioxidants are now a vital part of sunscreen formulas and found in most skin care formulas. So why do we need antioxidants and what do they do? Why can’t we just eat a handful of blueberries with cereal and be protected?

Antioxidants and other essential nutrients obtained through the diet (oral consumption) play an integral role in the health state of the skin. This is especially true regarding moisturization, care of aging skin, and protection against the effects of UV radiation. Many of these key dietary components consist of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids; vitamins A, C, and E; carotenoids; polyphenols; and selenium, zinc, and copper.

Topical antioxidants provide a surface protection from a host of intruding entities such as sun, pollution and so on. Science has advanced further to realize the free radicals and non-radicals are not just surface present but vary in concentration depending on the type of exposure level. We have learned that we can target through what are called delivery systems. Delivery systems work synergistically with various actives to provide antioxidants to specific layers of the epidermis.

What do antioxidants do? In a recent publication Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D. of Sytheon LTD states; “Antioxidants must neutralize diverse types of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with different chemical structures and reactivities, which include both free radicals and non-radicals. Conventional antioxidants typically show high reactivity toward free radicals with unpaired electrons, which they neutralize via donation of a hydrogen atom to restore them back to their more stable chemical form. However, the additional need to neutralize other highly reactive non-radical ROS (e.g., 1O2, ONOO–) confer new structural requirements on antioxidants to endow them with broader and more effective capabilities. Acetyl zingerone (Synoxyl AZ) is structurally related to zingerone, a naturally occurring phenolic alkenone found in ginger. It was designed for improved stability and broader antioxidant function.”

That is the Science behind current strategies to provide a more complete protection from damaging sun and pollution! Vitamin C is an antioxidant when formulated, ascorbic acid is water soluble, as such it’s effectivity is short lived and lacks the ability to penetrate below the surface. T-Hexuron™ is a stable form of Vitamin C, more specifically, it is the tetra-ester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid. T-Hexuron™ is oil-soluble, which means it not only penetrates the epidermis (the uppermost layer of your skin), but also goes farther into the dermis, the deeper layer—which is where it needs to be to stimulate collagen production. Finally, it is also known to clarify and brighten the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone.

The Future

We know UVA/UVB and Infrared heat from the sun results in Epigenetic changes to our skin, both surface and subsurface layers. Antioxidants help to neutralize the ionized particles that result in oxidative stress (skin aging). We are now entering a realm where we can measure the genetic expressions in response to sun exposure. Considerable research is now examining actives to heighten the protective response before assault. Two products already offer different ways of responding to the epigenetic expressions. One product provides the protective elements, and another heightens a repair mechanism. These are not to be confused with Sunscreens or Sun blocks. They offer the full protection needed for damaging UVA and UVB radiation. Rather these new methods are intended for incidental exposure on a daily basis.

In the last decade, a tremendous amount of research has been conducted to determine the benefits of molecules from cannabis—a genus of plants from the cannabaceae family. There are several Phyto cannabinoids that have been identified from the hemp plant; however, cannabidiol (CBD) is one of the most studied molecules. Another area of intense research is CBD oil, and CBD cooperative compounds. Already there are numerous products available.

The informed reader may now have a better understanding of one aspect of skin care ingredients. You will find in MC Rose skin care products a shift to more “Naturals”, specifically Timeless Naturals Plumping Day Cream now available at

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